Saturday, 29 October 2011

Fashion Week Review- Ethnic lace classic.

   It is so precious to see such a dreamy lace collection like this. I couldn't use any other type of words to describe Valentino 2012 SS collection but " Beautiful". 
Maria and Pier created a ethnic lace garden, edwardian lace and traditional lace cut works, embroidered with different fabrics combination are classic and fantastic, bubble sleeves and shoulder design are more turn to the ethnic way, accessories and bags are so "mexican tough sweet." I would love to wear such romantic outfits for sure, it feels like time traveling back to the beginning of last century,  Frida wears different type of lace and transparency embroidered flowers with her special style and elegant smile, visiting and exploring Europe. Well it is too much imagination... Actually these design are not too sweet and traditional, it is very artistic. Like digital print for modern lady style, lace design is one of the most visible details to present classic femininity lady. Women have more choices to pick whatever they want at modern era, however, every woman still eager to wear soft, decorated, classic femininity outfit. It make women feels like they are princess.

illustration by Nancy.Z
photography from Style.com


     












Edwardian lace cut work, the beginning of 20 century.







Frida's work always include so much strong personality from hers. Her style was quite original,mixed european style and south american ethnic style perfectly.

William John Waterhouse:"Miss Betty pollock"



Inspirations- Antique laces dress from the beginning of last century, references from " Vintage Textile".

Tuesday, 25 October 2011

The Neutral Classic.

   As a modern woman, if your bored of feminine dresses or lovely skirts, then just change to the trousers or jeans as a boy or a gentleman. It takes seconds.  You could dress up whatever you want in the modern age. " Tom boy " style or " Smoking" style is one of the most important trend in fashion industry. But historically it wasn't really easy to be accepted by people that a woman would be in men's wear. People thought that women in men's wear is kind of anti society a century ago (or queer in many respects). 
   At 1920s, Coco Chanel started to design trousers for women under big pressure. Coco loved riding, she thought it was really annoying to wear such heavy dresses, outfits to ride. Then she cut the dress, put the pants on. It wasn't normal at that golden age when every woman was still wearing an art deco style dress.  I disagree that many people said Chanel (the label) is a feminine dream, this brand never could be this simple. Whatever Coco or Karl, they present the theme of  Chanel is " Beyond the time", it shows that woman can be  handsome and elegant taking traits of men and women then combining them.
   Afterwards, Marlene dietrich was the first actress to wear men's wear in movies. She has a magical attraction, it is difficult to find an actress that could be suave and attractive at the same time.  I read many women fell in love with her since from the movie " Morocco", not just because her amazing acting, nice singing,  but also the smoking look that become a classic in the movie history. During WWII, it became more and more difficult to live because most of men had  joined the war effort. Women had to be independent responsible and productive, then easy style became a big trend. After the war, women's style has changed, less decoration, neater and stronger, but elegant still.  Katharine Hepburn made men's wear turned to a fashionable way. Jeanne Moreau's tomboy look from Truffaut's "Jules et Jim" inspired more and more fashion designer to present men's look to women. Also at 1960s, Yves Saint Laurent created" Le Smoking", Newton's photography present a strong , suave and elegant woman's figure, "Smoking look" turned to a real popular fashion culture.

   Has been a long time since I have posted men's style, actually I love men's style a lot. Not because it looks cool, but I think it is also suitable of my character.  :) , this series of pictures was taken during the last day of paris fashion week. 

Hat by Steton
Blazer and Vest from Vintage shop
Shirt by Givenchy
Socks by Topshop
Shoes from my friend's Jia

Illustration by Nancy.Z
Photography by M.Yu





     A lovely girl took these pics during  fashion week and sent them to me by twitter, I really appreciate that everyone support me so much! Thank you!



Inspirations:

Coco was the first fashion designer who designed men's style and trousers for women.(1920-1930)
How many women fell in love with Marlene dietrich in 1940s? She could be so attractive and suave at the same time. Her smoking suit outfit look is a forever icon of " Smoking style ".(1942)

Not just for playing a role, Katharine Hepburn loved wearing men's wear in her private life. It became a trend in 1950s  (1952)
One of my favorite movie from Truffaut, "Jules et Jim".  Jeanne Moreau's " Tom boy" style inspired a lot of designer and artist.(1962)

Was inspired by Marlene Dietrich, Yves Saint Laurent created" Le Smoking", It become an icon of YSL afterwards. Slim suit outfit with gentleman's hat, it shows more women's confidence and elegance . (1966)  

Sunday, 23 October 2011

Paris Fashion Week Review-Colors in the Wind.


   Sometimes I think it is lucky to be a woman. Most art has been dominated by men if you look at history, so it is clear that women, the female body or sexuality are major influences in art. In modern times we can see that a stronger and more assertive female role in the world, well in the civilized society at least. Women have a strength to them, independence of mind which was denied to them (should I say us?) for such a long time, and reasons I will not get into. We wear clothes now that are suited to us during the day, for work mainly we can look as sharp as men. Yet in the minds of all women I do believe there is a want to be feminine, gentile, to show our natures as beautiful people. 

  I have to admit I love Elie saab's collection for long time. He always know how to present the soft, classic,  feminine part of women. I am always wondering how could he use chiffon to make the outfit flow so much. Could be an innocent goddess in the forest, also could be   an enchanting elf in the darkness. The cut is always classic and neat, but you just couldn't help to fall in love with these designs as a woman. Reminds me of the  Neoclassicism style,which was inspired by Roman and Greek style,no too much decoration, less is more.  Whichever  era, art style is always like a recycle, fashion is the same. 
   For the next spring / summer collections, Elie saab give us a big " color shock".
  When the music "Metti una sera a cena" start, the show opens with a series of white looks that quickly evolve toward ocre, peach, emerald green and Lapis blue. Little by little, a bold color story illuminates daywear, from cape-sleeved chiffon dresses to a perfectly cut, deep purple-blue pantsuit; feminine, sensual pleated crêpe georgette and lace layering on skirts.In counter point to diaphanous gowns, graphic lines, precise cutouts and lace inserts offer a new, modern definition of daywear.
  For evening, a ripple of matte sequins over the bust rivals the allure of a backless dress; day dresses come to life with the discreet shine of pebbles in a riverbed. A series of Klein blue dresses embroidered with unique sequins shimmer with almost stellar depth. 
   

illustration by Nancy.Z






I think video of the show is more attractive. You could see these colorful chiffon dress was flowing when the models were walking, just like the colors in the wind.

Video by Pret-A-Porter









These colorful elegant designs reminds me the painting from Lord Frederick Leighton,"Flaming June" (1895)

This flowing outfit during PFW fashion week is a perfect match with the theme of today, although it wasn't taken at the day I went to Elie Saab show. To be honest I am really obsessed with pure white outfit too much.

Hat by Malene Birger
Sunglasses by Chanel 70s Antique
Shirt by Givenchy
Bag by Celine
Skirt by Rag & Bone
Heels by Topshop

Illustration by Nancy Z
Photography By Deniz Miray Petrini from Vogue.it,
           Phil Oh from Vogue.com
M.Yu


By M.Yu

By Deniz Miray Petrini from Vogue.it

By Deniz Miray Petrini from Vogue.it

By Phil Oh from Vogue.com

By M.Yu


  M.Yu and me, Thanks her take many nice pictures for me and guide me in Paris. :)

Wednesday, 19 October 2011

Dark flower and gold universe.

   When you look up at night what is the first thing that you see? No, not the stars or the polluted air, airplanes flying past or what ever you think you see I bet you are not thinking of the obvious. What I see when I look up at the sky during night time is Black. The color that isn't a color but a shade yet some say is a color. No! it is a shade of course. A value from light to dark. Today thinking about the post it came to me how design has made a Shade fashionable and popular. Something that is worn traditionally by civil servants, religious clerics (say monks), e.t.c. Any type of person who is made to conform, or in a group of people or society where conformity is a norm. Yes most of the time it is not black, but the shade of a color is dark mainly. Also I find that Gothic themes and styles are very much an influence in today's culture and style. And actually Gothic fashion was found in Victorian's cult style in the 19th century. European cultures from different era were influenced by each other, now it has gone from something that is meant as evil (witches) or negative to mysterious, sexy and stylish. Black in fashion or the use of it's value in color  tone is important and unique. It has a double nature. Unlike other color implementations. You can't really have a green police officer, pink, yellow or bright red. But you can use them in fashion as much as you want to mix and match to your heart's desires. Yet with black, it can be used for anything. Any scenario of fashion. 
    Also another thing i noticed in paintings of old, and traditions which span time. Black seems to be used as a way to highlight the persons attention to the ornaments, accessories, gold, silver e.t.c. It makes the accessories pop out bright and bold against a dark background. (Especially Byzantine's clothes style with those magnificent accessories are so much inspiration.)The same rule as in art, make the background darker than the foreground subject to make him/her stand out. 



Hair accessories from japanese Zakka shop
Collar from Ebay
Necklace by Ejing Zhang
Top by MSGM
Skirt and heels by Topshop
Tights by Bebaroque

illustration by Nancy.Z
photography by M. Yu
Photo shoot at Ritz Hotel










Color Inspiration.

Inspiration 2-Victorian's black outfit.

Embroidering details of 19th century, Victorian style

Theda Bara's looks have inspired by Gothic fashion a lot.

Accessories inspiration-Princess Theodora(11th century), Byzantine Empress

Sunday, 16 October 2011

The elegance of Rococo-episode 2.

Let's continue talking about Rococo. This look paid tribute to Jean-Antoine Watteau, who was the best Rococo artist among those 18 century painters from my opinion. Like I said before, Rococo style is very decorated, soft, feminine and dreamy.  It lack of  a power to " wake people up", however, I think his mature works are the closest to modern sensibilities compare to other Rococo painters. And yet, His style was the inspiration of other Rococo painters as well. The inspiration of this look from his most famous painting" Pierrot"(1718-1719). I believe women who loves Rococo style very much are romantic and dramatic from their inside. I like wearing pure white look since long ago, ruffle collar and russian royal pattern tights make the look turn to a dramatic way.


Hair accessories by Lelia
Ruffle Collar made by myself
Dress from Ebay
Tights by Bebaroque
Heels by Topshop

illustration by Nancy.Z
photography by M.Yu
Photo shoot at Ritz Hotel











Inspiration- "Gilles and Four Other Characters of the Commedia dell'arte" by Antoine Watteau, c.1717.museum of the Louvre,Paris
Pigrimage on the Isle of Cythera,1717, Louvre